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Step-by-Step Guide to Rigging and Aiming Moving Heads Safely

The order that keeps a rig safe: structure, primary fixing, secondary, power, address, aim. Plus the hardware that does each job.

Step-by-Step Guide to Rigging and Aiming Moving Heads Safely

September 25, 2026 · RiGeBa Lighting Team · How-To

Most rigging failures are not dramatic. A clamp is tightened on the wrong tube size, a safety bond is clipped to the truss chord next to the clamp instead of to the structure, or a fixture is hung and then nobody checks whether the truss underneath it was rated for the load. Each of those is a thirty-second mistake.

The short answer

Work in one order and never skip a step: check the structure and its rated load, fix the primary clamp to the correct tube, attach a secondary safety bond to the structure, connect power and data with a strain relief, set the DMX address, then aim at the widest beam angle. Hardware is cheap compared with a fixture — a clamp is a few dollars against several hundred for the unit hanging from it.

Step 1: is the structure rated for the load?

Before anything is hung, the supporting structure has to be adequate. This is the step most often assumed rather than checked.

CheckWhat to confirm
Structure ratingPoint load capacity of the truss or beam, not just the span rating
Total loadEvery fixture, clamp, cable and bond on that point, added up
Dynamic loadMoving heads shift their weight as they pan — the load is not static
Fixing methodThe truss or beam is itself properly suspended or ground-supported
AccessHow the fixture will be reached for focusing and service

A ground-support tower needs a base and, above a certain height, outriggers. Our range includes a single-plate iron base and an aluminium outrigger for exactly that purpose, and neither is optional once the tower is tall.

Step 2: what is the correct primary fixing?

The clamp is the part that holds the fixture. It must match the tube diameter and be rated for the load.

ModelTypeEXW
DG-LS52F-200Single hook clampUS$6.05
TS-WJHZB156X107X50-W30Single hook clamp with connecting pieceUS$9.68
DG-LS52F-400Double hook clampUS$10.89
BX-L1F65x50T28-WSafety barUS$12.10
DD-Se2L200-YBeltUS$7.26
TS-WJJTB80X34X34-W30Connecting pieceUS$3.63

A double hook clamp is the right choice for a heavy moving head: two hooks share the load and the fixture cannot rotate off a single point. The single hook version suits lighter fixtures and bars.

Two rules that catch the common errors. The clamp must be the correct size for the tube it grips — a 50 mm clamp on a 60 mm chord does not seat properly and will slip. And the clamp must be tightened to the point where the fixture cannot be moved by hand, then checked again after the first hour of movement.

Step 3: does every fixture need a secondary suspension?

Every fixture hung above people needs a safety bond, and the bond has to go to the structure — not to the truss chord beside the clamp, and not to another fixture.

RuleWhy
Bond to the structure, not the chordA chord can fail with the clamp
Use a rated steel bond or cableZip ties and rope are not secondary suspension
Give it slack so it is not load-bearingIt should catch, not carry
One bond per fixtureNot one bond for a bar of four
Inspect before every useA frayed bond is a replaced bond

The rated belt and safety bar in our truss range exist for this step. At under US$13 each there is no reason to improvise.

Step 4: power and data

Connect last, dress properly, and strain-relieve everything.

TaskDetail
Power off before connectingAlways — including before patching data
Strain reliefCable tied to the yoke or the clamp, never hanging from the connector
Drip loop outdoorsLowest point below the connector
DMX terminationA 120 Ω terminator at the end of the last run
Cable routingAway from the pan/tilt arc — a snagged cable is a broken fixture
Test before the room fillsPower every fixture and check it homes correctly

A moving head sweeps a large volume. Anything loose in that volume — a cable, a bond, a case lid — will be found by the fixture at speed.

Step 5: how should the address and mode be set?

Address before aiming, because the fixture has to respond before it can be pointed.

StepDetail
Choose the channel modeFewer channels for effects, 16-bit for slow moves
Write the plan downAddress, position and mode per fixture, taped to the case
Set the address on the fixtureVerify on the display, not on the console
Confirm the fixture homesHome position tells you the motors are working
Terminate the runPrevents the intermittent faults that waste an hour

Step 6: how should the fixture be aimed?

Open the beam fully before focusing. A fixture focused at its narrowest setting is wrong at every other setting, and the mistake is invisible until the show.

StepDetail
Set the widest beamZoom and iris fully open
Drive pan and tilt from a consoleBring the pool to the mark slowly
Aim from the fixture's final positionWhere it sits in the rig, not on a bench
Check the extremesRun the full pan and tilt range and look for collisions
Mark the positionA paint mark on the yoke saves re-focusing
Record the valueThe console position, not just the physical mark

What is the inspection routine?

IntervalCheck
Before every use (touring)Clamp tightness, bond condition, cable strain relief
Monthly (permanent)Visual check of hardware, any sign of corrosion
Annually (permanent)Full inspection: clamps, bonds, structure, cable condition
After any transportEvery clamp and bond on the fixture that moved
After any modificationRe-check load and re-terminate data

Which fixtures are easier to rig?

Lighter ones, honestly. Weight is the single biggest variable in how much structure, how much hardware and how many people a rig needs.

ModelTypeEXW, 1 unit
RG-ML70WS-KNNe7AH8Compact LED moving headUS$45
RG-ML150BR-KNNW1H13Mini 150WUS$96
RG-ML100BP-KNNW1H13100W LED beamUS$105
RG-ML80B-KCRe8AH388-head beam barUS$134
RG-M300BH-KYH16300W beamUS$285
RG-ML500RS-KNNW1H20500W CMY 3-in-1 BSWUS$569

An 8-head beam bar is worth noting here: eight beams from one clamp and one bond, which is eight times the effect for the same rigging work.

What to send us

Tell us the span, the fixture count and whether the rig is flown or ground-supported. We will size the truss, specify the clamps and bases, and quote the hardware alongside the fixtures so it arrives in one shipment.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the correct order for rigging a moving head?

Structure first, then the primary fixing, then the secondary safety, then power and data, then addressing, then aiming. Every serious rigging accident comes from doing these in a different order or skipping one.

Does every fixture need a safety bond?

Yes. A safety cable or steel bond is a secondary suspension that catches the fixture if the clamp fails, and it must be attached to the structure rather than to the truss chord next to the clamp. It is not optional on anything hung above people.

What clamp should be used on a moving head?

A hook clamp rated for at least the fixture weight with a suitable safety factor, matched to the tube diameter it is gripping. A clamp that fits a 50 mm tube will not hold on a 60 mm tube, and a coupler is a different part from a clamp.

How is a moving head aimed without a console?

Set the fixture to its widest beam, power it on a known DMX address, and drive pan and tilt from a console or a simple controller until the pool lands where it should. Aim at the widest angle so the fixture is usable at every setting afterwards.

How often should a hung rig be inspected?

Before every use on a touring rig and at least annually on a permanent install, looking at clamp tightness, safety bond condition, cable strain relief and any sign of corrosion on the hardware.

RiggingSafetyMoving HeadInstallation

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